The Fujiya Hotel in Hakone

Accomodation in Hakone is expensive. Due to its proximity to Tokyo and its hot spring attraction, prices of decent accomodation can be quite high. In the end, we settled for the Fujiya Hotel located at Miyanoshita, Hakone-Machi. Because we had done our research beforehand, we already expected the bedrooms to be tired-looking. However we really only needed a place to sleep and at@USD100+taxes, their special anniversary plan for foreigners was worth it. The promotional hotel rate has since gone up to USD132+. The other aspects of the Fujiya Hotel - its architecture, gardens and history more than made up for its room decor.

Built in 1868, this aged, but graceful hotel has hosted many famous people ranging from rock stars (John Lennon) to royalty, actors to politicians. The Fujiya Hotel's architecture is impressive. We could not help but admire the intricate carvings and splendid details as we wandered around the hotel grounds.





They even have an indoor English chapel for weddings!



The Fujiya Hotel gardens are beautiful. As we were there in spring, we took a morning walk around the gardens which was in full bloom.


There was a quaint little hut with a water wheel - a favourite picture-taking spot among the guests.


Sit by the koi pond and enjoy the serene surroundings as you watch the golden fishes move gracefully underwater and listen to the gentle splash of the miniature waterfall
.

Be sure to pay a visit to the Fujiya Hotel Museum. Read about the history of the museum, its founders and guests. Wander around and admire the ancient knick knacks - like this picture of the "International Mustache Club".


If you're a Beatles fan, you will love this picture of John Lennon & Yoko Ono taken at the hotel.


The hotel has also kept its guests books from its early years.

The Fujiya Hotel is truly a grande dame among hotels!

Highlights of Hakone Free Pass Route

Hakone Free Pass Loop:
Hakone Machi (Lake Ashi cruise)- Togendai - Sounzan(Ropeway) - Gora (Cable car) - Hakone Yumoto (Train) (can also be done in reverse)

On our first day in Hakone, we started our tour with a bus ride from our hotel, the Fujiya to Moto Hakone. The weather was not in our favour, with intermittent rain and wind. But armed with borrowed hotel umbrellas, we plodded on. Our first stop was the Old Cedar Highway. It was awesome walking on the footpath surrounded by 400 year old cedar trees. The tall sturdy trees provided some respite from the rain and it was lovely to enjoy the serene surroundings.


From the Cedar Highway, we made our way on foot to Hakone Machi at Lake Ashi to board the pirate cruise boat to the other side of the Lake. At this stage, it was pouring cats and dogs. We really couldn't see much and as luck would have it, a bus-load of tourists came on board the ship, turning the pirate boat into a real pirate boat of the past - loud and noisy!


We went through the rest of journey on the ropeway, cablecar and train, just going through the motion and not really able to enjoy the sights, because it was just too dark, wet and cold. Fortunately for us, the weather turned and we had beautiful blue skies and bright sunshine the next day. We decided to repeat the Hakone Loop, and we were glad we did. What a difference from the day before! Instead of looking out from blurry windows filled with raindrops, we could actually enjoy the beautiful scenery of the lake and volcano mountain.



I thoroughly enjoyed the ropeway as it gave a bird's eye view of the volcano craters at Owakudani. The hot springs water from the volcano are channeled by pipelines to the various resorts in Hakone.


Be prepared to hold your nose because the sulphur fumes smells like rotten eggs!


Whist we're on the subject of eggs, every visitor must try the "black egg" at Owakudani. These eggs are 3/4 boiled, and are cooked in the volcano hot springs. Apart from the black shell, they taste just like normal eggs.


Still a couple of volcano-boiled eggs didn't quite satisfy the hunger pangs after we completed the loop at Gora, so we headed to the Gyoza Centre, a cosy little cafe which is about 1 km from the train station for a meal of dumplings.



After that we hopped on the train for a slow ride down to Hakone Yumoto (Note: the bus is a faster way to travel, where available. From Gora, you must take the train.) At Hakone Yumoto town, we browsed around the 2 rows of shops, enjoying more food! It was particularly enjoyable seeing how the snacks were made.

The Best of Hakone - Hakone Free Pass

The lovely "onsen" (hot springs) town of Hakone is a perfect getaway spot from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo city. The locals think so too, so be warned of the crowds during weekends and holidays. If you're a visitor, it would be best for you to plan a trip during a weekday if you prefer a more relaxing getaway without the maddening crowds.

Located around 100 kms West of Tokyo, the best way to experience Hakone is to get the Hakone Free Pass. The Hakone Free Pass provides a round trip return ticket from Shinjuku Station to Hakone as well as unlimited boarding of participating buses, ferries, trains, cable car and ropeway for 5,000 yen (2 days) or 5,500 yen (3 days). If you're not planning to return to Tokyo, consider getting the Hakone Free Pass from Odawara (3,900 yen) and just buying the 1 way ticket from Shinjuku Station to Odawara. I would also highly recommend paying an additional 870 yen one way to upgrade to the Odakyu Ltd. Express Romance Car for a more comfortable ride.

You can book the pass on-line and collect it at the Odakyu Sightseeing Centre in Shinjuku Station. They have a counter for international visitors. Together with your pass, you will get a circuit map which shows you the best way to get around Hakone using the various forms of transportation below:

Hakone Free Pass Transportation:
1. Odakyu Romance Car (pay to upgrade)
- From Shinjuku Station to Odawara/Hakone Yumoto

Hakone Tozan Bus
2. - The most efficient way to travel within Hakone


3. Hakone Tozan Train
A leisurely 40 minute ride from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora.


4. Hakone Sightseeing Cruise (Lake Ashi)
A splendid way to view the beauty of Lake Ashi aboard a pirate ship: Togendai - Motohakone-ko - Hakone-machi


5. Hakone Ropeway
Enjoy the panaromic view of the the mountain and hot springs: Sounzan to Togendai


6. Hakone Tozan Cable car
Take the short ride from Gora to Sounzan on this Swiss made cable car


The Hakone Free Pass is definitely worth getting. When we first arrived in Hakone, it was raining so we did the entire circuit without getting the full benefit of the views. Fortunately, we had blue skies the next morning, so we repeated the entire transport circuit, this time, with full enjoyment of the view. I'll share more about our experiences in the next post.